Luisa Beccaria SS27: A Garden Worn Close to the Skin

With Herbarium, the house brings its botanical imagination to life through sheer fabrics, dimensional flowers and silhouettes that explore a playful sensuality.

A garden can be made of organza, embroidery and movement. For Spring/Summer 2027, Luisa Beccaria introduces Herbarium, a collection that revisits the house’s floral vocabulary with fresh energy. Its romantic sensibility takes on a playful character, while transparency and shifting proportions invite a lighter expression of sensuality.

The idea of a herbarium shapes the collection: fragments of nature are gathered and preserved, revealing new connections between colour and form. Flowers, leaves, pomegranates and foliage appear as prints, embroidery and appliqués. Translated into clothing, this botanical archive gains dimension and comes alive with the body’s movement.

The silhouettes offer several ways into that world. Bustier dresses are paired with lightweight capes, pencil skirts meet sheer blouses, and trapeze minidresses bring a shorter, more carefree proportion. Fluid dresses sit alongside more structured shapes, allowing different expressions of femininity to share the same wardrobe.

Some of the collection’s most compelling contrasts emerge through fabric. Organza, lace, embroidered tulle and fil coupé bring transparency and texture, while brocade, poplin and printed cottons provide greater substance. Hand-knitted openwork mohair adds an airy softness, its dégradé shades recalling the subtle colour shifts of flower petals.

Surfaces become a place for experimentation. Chiffon inserts suggest a petal’s delicacy, while embroidery and sequin appliqués create dimensional effects. Ruching and ruffles form corolla-like shapes at necklines, cuffs and trouser hems, making decoration an active part of the garment’s movement. Delicate stripes introduce a measured graphic rhythm within the floral abundance.

Colour follows the changing light. Shades drawn from water and sky meet those of dawn, sunlight and sunset, moving between gentle tones and brighter intensity. The wardrobe has a similarly broad reach, conceived for occasions ranging from important celebrations to countryside breakfasts and evenings by the sea.

Footwear developed through Luisa Beccaria’s collaboration with Kathryn Lipman for Sandro Vicari extends the collection’s character through unexpected combinations of colour and material.

Milan’s Acquario Civico completes the setting. Its garden and Liberty-style architecture echo the interplay of vegetation, ornament and fluidity found in the clothes. Within this environment, Herbarium becomes an encounter between the body, the garment and the surrounding landscape.

The collection’s strength lies in its handling of a familiar language. Luisa Beccaria discovers fresh possibilities within its own world, adjusting proportions, alternating fabric weights and giving flowers room to take shape. The result is a romantic wardrobe with a tangible presence, designed to move through the life of the woman wearing it.